Woodgrain offers a diverse selection of moulding and doors in a variety of species. Use the
below charts as a species guide when perusing our collections.

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Raw Fingerjoint Pine (FJ)
Pieces of finger jointed pine are glued together to create one continuous piece of moulding. Finish: Paint
Primed Finger Joint Pine (PFJ)
Pieces of primed finger jointed pine are glued together to create one continuous piece of moulding. The primed version has a white water based paint coat applied making the moulding ready to finish. Finish: Paint
Pine (PNE)
A solid piece of pine moulding with a small grain. Finish: Stain or Paint.
Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF)
Cut and moulded from wood fiber mixed with resin sheet stock to make a solid piece of moulding. All MDF is primed with a coat of white water-based paint, making the moulding ready to finish. Finish: Paint
Polyvinyl Chloride (PVC)
A plastic product manufactured for exterior applications due to its ability to endure all types of weather. Finish: Paint
Trimfinity (TIM)
Made from 90% recycled plastic, 50% post-consumer, and 40% pre-consumer. Finish: Paint
Finished Elegance (FMD)
Durable, no-painting-required interior finished moulding with a silky smooth finish. Finish: no painting required
Light MDR (UMD)
Measured in metric units. Various shades of white with a light brown substrate. Finish: Paint
Banak (MFW)
Finish: Paint
Cherry (CHY)
Cherry grows in the eastern and midwestern United States and comes in a range of colors, including white, light red, deep red, and reddish brown. Cherry has a fine, uniform, straight grain and a smooth texture. Cherry accepts a variety of stains and finishes.
Douglas Fir (FIR)
Douglas fir is a large, generally vertical-grained tree that grows in abundance in the Pacific Northwest. Douglas fir is characterized by exceptional natural strength, hardness, and durability. The wood varies in color from, yellowish tan to light, bright brown.
Knotty Alder (KAL)
Knotty alder grows in the Pacific Northwest and is a medium density hardwood with an even grain appearance. The wood is normally light brown with hues of red or peach. Its softer nature makes it easy to machine and receptive to a variety of stains and finishes.
Knotty Pine (KPN)
Knotty pine is abundant in America. The wood has a rich display of knots that reflects the randomness and beauty of nature. The wood tends to be a honey-toned or straw color while the knots are generally reddish-brown.
Knotty Radiata (KRD)
Knotty radiata pine is a plantation-grown wood from Chile, New Zealand, and Australia. It has a distinctive grain pattern with a pale cream color. Knotty radiata tends to be harder than other pine species. It's also more knotty, giving it a rustic look.
Mahogany (MHG)
Mahogany is characterized by its natural strength, proven durability, and rich red color. Its straight grain is usually free of voids and pockets, making it a premium hardwood known for use in high-end furniture making.
Maple (MPL)
Maple is creamy white with a reddish tinge. It is mostly straight grained and very sturdy.
Ponderosa Pine (PON)
Ponderosa pine is one of America’s most abundant tree species. It has straight, uniform grain with minimal amounts of reddish-brown heartwood. The sapwood has wide growth bands, which are honey-toned or straw-colored.
Poplar (POP)
Poplar grows in the eastern United States. Colors of poplar vary from brown, to pale yellow, to olive green. Over time, the green color will darken with exposure to sunlight, and it may even turn brown. Poplar is a medium density hardwood, and it's generally straight-grained with a fine, even texture.
Primed (PRM)
Woodgrain’s multiple door configurations have a primed option to allow for a better paint finish and color match process. Interior applications are produced with MDF veneer and panels for ease of painting. MDF Design Collection Router Carved doors are also available.
Radiata Pine (RAD)
Radiata pine is a plantation-grown wood from Chile, New Zealand, and Australia. It has a distinctive grain pattern with a pale cream color. Radiata tends to be harder than other pine species and has fewer knots.
Rustic Hickory (RHK)
This unique species has many variations allowed in the wood, giving it a lot of character. Mineral, sap, bird pecks, heartwood, and knots are common. The color may vary from a dark brown to white. Rustic hickory is often clear coated or stained lighter to showcase the natural beauty of the species.
Walnut (WAL)
Walnut grows throughout the eastern United States. Its color ranges from medium light to chocolate brown. Walnut is generally straight grained with a course texture. It is a dense wood and accepts a variety of stains and finishes.

Moulding Size Chart

Consider the size of your space when purchasing moulding. As you can see based on the chart below, the taller the space, the wider the moulding can be.

Ceiling Height Casing Base Crown
8′ 2-1/4″ 3-1/4″ 3-5/8″
9′ 2-1/4″ – 3-1/4″ 4-1/4″ – 5-1/4″ 4-1/4″ – 5-1/4″
10′ 2-1/4″ – 3-1/4″ 4-1/4″ – 5-1/4″ 4-1/4″ – 5-1/4″
11′ 3-1/4″ – 3-1/2″ 5-1/4″ – 7-1/4″ 4-5/8″ – 6″
12′ or more 3-1/4″ – 3-1/2″ 7-1/4″ 7″

Step 1: Tools

The installation of moulding starts with having the right tools. The following are the most common tools needed for a safe installation of moulding:

  • Miter Box, Miter Saw or Compound Miter Saw
  • Finishing Nails, Nail Set, and a Hammer or Brad Nailer
  • Wood Putty and Glue
  • Tape Measure
  • Coping Saw
  • Framing Square
  • Protractor
  • Pen and Paper
  • Utility Knife
  • Ladder
  • Safety Glasses
  • Hearing Protection

Step 2: Measure

Start by measuring the length of each wall and be sure to subtract any doors, windows, or openings. Add 15% to each wall to allow for miter cuts and waste. This will provide the amount of moulding needed for the project. It is also helpful to sketch the room while noting dimensions and corners.

Step 3: Make Your Cuts

After purchasing the moulding, determine which piece and wall to start with. Identify what miter cuts will need to be made along with any splicing that may be required. When measuring a piece of moulding that will be mitered, add the width of the moulding to the measurement to allow for the miter cut.

Step 4: Install

Nail the moulding in place with finishing nails, and wait to nail the corners until all the moulding is installed. If the moulding ends without running into a wall, create a return. A return can be created from a scrap piece of moulding. Cut the proper angle on one end of the moulding and a 90-degree angle on the other end, forming a small triangular piece of moulding. Attach the piece with wood glue and tape it down until the glue dries.

Finishing Mouldings

We recommend staining or painting the moulding before it is installed if possible. If you are painting existing moulding, pay close attention to steps 4-6.

  1. Fill any nail holes, repair scratches, dents, or damaged surfaces by sanding the area and using a non-shrinking filler such as caulking.
  2. Allow the filler to dry and lightly sandings the moulding will help paint and stain adhere better, be sure to sand any sharp edges or angles we recommended a 120 grit paper
  3. Caulking your seems will really set your mouldings apart, it gives it a finished look and will cover up any leftover gaps. When applying caulking keep constant pressure as you apply to the seams. We recommend cutting your caulking tub tip at a 30-degree angle, this will allow for better application.
  4. Use painters tape once the caulking is dry to mask off the areas you do not want to apply paint or stain. Be sure to apply pressure to the tape so the paint doesn’t seep underneath your tape lines.
  5. Staining and painting a quality brush will yeld better results, don’t go cheap on the paintbrush you may finish that bristles are falling out on to your moulding, we suggest a nylon or poly-nylon brush 2 to 2.5 inches in size are best suited for painting trim and mouldings. If using pollyurathan a small foam roller and foam brush are ideal.
  6. When Staining keep in mind stain will pool in cracks. use a dry paintbrush to remove it for each piece after it’s been completely wiped. Wipe the brush on a clean rag or brush it on newspaper to clean of the stain between strokes.
  7. If a second coat is needed make be sure to wait until the first coat is completely dry. The time it takes to dry will vary on temperature and humidity.
    *We recommend touching up the trim as needed once the project is complete.

Types of Finish

Primed, Prefinished and Finished Elegance

We offer a number of different species and types of mouldings along with finishes. Our Primed moulding is a pine finger joint moulding which is ideal for someone looking to paint the unit. With a white coat of primer, it covers up the imperfections and is ready to be painted. Our prefinished mouldings come in a number of colors and stains, Our diverse product offering covers all wood looks. The Prefinished product is ready to be installed, which save you time and money. Finished Elegance® is the premier interior moulding line that is easy to install and requires no painting – a truly finished product. As the only moulding coated on all four sides with Eastman Cerfis™ technology, Finished Elegance offers the most superior durability on the market. Perfectly finish any look with our

Oil vs. water-based topcoats

Oil-based finishes are a little more durable than water-based, but the difference isn’t nearly as great as it was 10 years ago. Oil will yellow unstained wood more compared to water-based products, which can be good or bad depending on the look you’re after. Yellowing isn’t an issue with stained wood. Water-based products dry faster, which helps keep dust from settling into the finish. Cleanup is easier with water-based products, and the odor isn’t nearly as strong.

Polyurethane vs. varnish

What’s the difference between polyurethane and varnish? Varnish contains a resin and a solvent (oil or water). Once varnish is applied to wood, the solvent evaporates and the protective resin is left behind. Varnish can contain one of a few different resins, and polyurethane is one of them. Varnish that contains polyurethane just goes by the name polyurethane. The upside to polyurethane is that it’s tougher (like a plastic coating) than the other varnishes. The downside is that it can appear cloudy when it’s applied too thick, and it’s harder to sand between coats.



Finishing Doors

Preparation for Finishing

  • When staining, a wood conditioner or sander/sealer should be used to help achieve a more uniform finish. (Be sure to follow the wood conditioner manufacturer’s instructions closely.)
  • FIR doors should be surface treated with acetone product in advance of wood conditioner.
  • Before applying the first coat of finish, thoroughly sand the entire surface of the door with 180 grit sandpaper. This crucial step helps remove handling marks, fingerprints, fiber pop, natural grain raise, possible water or liquid marks (if exposed during shipping or while on the job-site during the construction phase) and evenly prepares open wood pores to help produce a more uniform finish.
  • Panels and bars oat and may become out of alignment during shipping and handling. Carefully take a block of wood and mallet and tap the components in alignment. Use caution not to damage the door or component during this process.
  • Clean door thoroughly with a cloth after sanding to remove all dust or foreign material. Avoid using compressed air to blow off door as moisture or oil in the air may cause spotting. Avoid using caustic or abrasive cleaners.
  • Hang door before finishing it, then remove it to finish properly.

Exterior Finishing

Stain-and-Clear Finish

When staining, a wood conditioner should be used to help achieve a more uniform finish. (Be sure to follow wood conditioner manufacturer’s instructions closely.) The first coat of stain may be a stain-and-sealer, a combination of stain and sealer which colors the door and seals the surface. It is available in a wide range of colors. (Dark color finishes should not be used on doors exposed to prolonged direct sunlight, as some expansion and contraction of door parts may occur. See warranty for detail.) The stain-and-sealer should have an alkyd-resin base. Under no circumstances should
a lacquer-based toner or any other lacquer-based finish be used on exterior doors. The second and third coat (two top coats minimum) may be a solvent-borne (oil-base, alkyd resin-base, polyurethane resin-base) or a water-borne (latex resin-base) clear finish. On doors that are glazed, the finish used should be owed from the wood slightly onto the glass. This will provide assurance against water leakage and protect the glazing compound from drying out.

All stain-and-clear finishes will perform better if protected from the direct effects of sunlight and weathering, and refinishing will not be required as frequently. In areas of high exposure of sunlight and weather a marine grade top coat is recommended.

Interior Finishing

Stain-and-Clear Finish

When staining, a wood conditioner should be used to help achieve a more uniform finish. (Be sure to follow wood conditioner manufacturer’s instructions closely.) A solvent-borne finish system is recommended for interior doors and may be a lacquer-based system. For best performance, a minimum of two clear top coats should be used over stains. All six sides of the door must be properly sealed for warranty to apply. Woodgrain Doors have plastic film protection on the glass, removal of plastic film protection immediately after applying the finish is required. Failure to remove the plastic film at this time may cause harm to the glass and will create difficulty in removing the film at a later time. Do not use razor blades or sharp objects to remove the lm or clean the glass. These items will scratch the glass.

Painted Finish

Apply 2-3 coats of either oil-base or latex resin-base paints over 1-2 coats of an oil-base primer. (Latex or water base primer may contribute to raised grain and require extra sanding to achieve a smooth finish.) All finishes should be applied in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. All six sides of the door must be properly sealed for warranty to apply.


  • Woodgrain Doors cannot evaluate all the available paints and stains, nor customers’ specific application requirements.
  • Your paint dealer should know of suitable finish systems that give satisfactory results in your region. It is highly recommended that top quality finishes be selected, and the application instructions on the container be followed explicitly.
  • Please do not use metal objects, (razor blades etc.) to remove caulking compound or paint and varnish residue. It is known to scratch the tempered glass. Please do not use compressed air to blow off wood doors, as condensation in the air lines may cause irregular finishing results.

Woodgrain Doors with Glass

Plastic film protection on the glass should be removed immediately after applying the finish. Failure
to remove the plastic film at this time may cause harm to the glass and may create difficulty in removing the film. Use caution to avoid scratching the glass while cleaning it. Glass that is scratched due to cleaning is not covered by the warranty. Film should be removed by scoring edges carefully under sticking or profile edge and peeled off by hand. SOP instructions for film removal available on request.

Glass Cleaning and Care Guidelines


  • Clean glass when dirt and residue appear
  • Exercise special care when cleaning coated glass surfaces
  • Avoid cleaning tinted and coated glass surfaces in direct sunlight
  • Start cleaning at the upper level of glass and continue to lower levels
  • Soak the glass surface with clean water and soap solution to loosen dirt and debris
  • Use a mild, non-abrasive commercial window cleaning solution
  • Use a squeegee to remove all of the cleaning solution
  • Dry all cleaning solution from window gaskets, sealants and frame
  • Be aware of and follow the glass supplier’s speci c cleaning recommendations
  • Prevent conditions that can damage the glass


  • Don’t use scrapers of any size or type for cleaning glass
  • Don’t allow dirt and residue to remain on glass for an extended period of time
  • Don’t begin cleaning glass without knowing if a coated surface is exposed
  • Don’t clean tinted or coated glass in direct sunlight
  • Don’t allow water or cleaning residue to remain on the glass or adjacent materials
  • Don’t begin cleaning without rinsing excessive dirt and debris
  • Don’t use abrasive cleaning solutions or materials
  • Don’t allow metal parts of cleaning equipment to contact the glass
  • Don’t trap abrasive particles between the cleaning materials and the glass surface
  • Don’t allow other trades to lean tools or materials against the glass surface
  • Don’t allow splashed materials to dry on the glass surface

Moulding Calculations

Moulding Length
Moulding Angle
Moulding Calculator
The form below is only a rough estimate. Woodgrain assumes no responsibility for the end result of your project.
*** Pay Attention to Unit Sizing ***

Room Demensions



All Measurments Account for 15% waste
Angle Finder

Wall Angle: 90

Miter Angle: 35.3

Bevel Angle: 30


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