MOULDING AND DOOR SPECIES
Woodgrain offers a diverse selection of moulding and doors in a variety of species. Use the
below charts as a species guide when perusing our collections.
Moulding Size Chart
Consider the size of your space when purchasing moulding. As you can see based on the chart below, the taller the space, the wider the moulding can be.
|9′||2-1/4″ – 3-1/4″||4-1/4″ – 5-1/4″||4-1/4″ – 5-1/4″|
|10′||2-1/4″ – 3-1/4″||4-1/4″ – 5-1/4″||4-1/4″ – 5-1/4″|
|11′||3-1/4″ – 3-1/2″||5-1/4″ – 7-1/4″||4-5/8″ – 6″|
|12′ or more||3-1/4″ – 3-1/2″||7-1/4″||7″|
The installation of moulding starts with having the right tools. The following are the most common tools needed for a safe installation of moulding:
- Miter Box, Miter Saw or Compound Miter Saw
- Finishing Nails, Nail Set, and a Hammer or Brad Nailer
- Wood Putty and Glue
- Tape Measure
- Coping Saw
- Framing Square
- Pen and Paper
- Utility Knife
- Safety Glasses
- Hearing Protection
Start by measuring the length of each wall and be sure to subtract any doors, windows or openings. Add 15% to each wall to allow for miter cuts and waste. This will provide the amount of moulding needed for the project. It is also helpful to sketch the room noting dimensions and corners.
After purchasing the moulding, determine which piece and wall to start with. Identify what miter cuts will need to be made along with any splicing that may be required. When measuring a piece of moulding which will be mitered, add the width of the moulding to the measurement to allow for the miter cut.
Nail the moulding in place with finishing nails leaving the corners to nail at the end once all the moulding is installed. Install the moulding around the entire room and go back to nail the corners. If the moulding ends without running into a wall create a return. A return can be created from a scrap piece of moulding. Cut the proper angle on the one end of the moulding and a 90 degree angle on the other end forming a small triangular piece of moulding. Attach the piece with wood glue and tape until the glue dries.
We recommend staining or painting the moulding before it is installed if possible if you are painting existing moulding pay close attention to steps 4-6).
- Fill any nail holes, repair scratches, dents, or damaged surfaces by sanding the area and using a non-shrinking filler such as caulking.
- Allow the filler to dry and lightly sandings the moulding will help paint and stain adhere better, be sure to sand any sharp edges or angles we recommended a 120 grit paper
- Caulking your seems will really set your mouldings apart, it gives it a finished look and will cover up any leftover gaps. When applying caulking keep constant pressure as you apply to the seams. We recommend cutting your caulking tub tip at a 30-degree angle, this will allow for better application.
- Use painters tape once the caulking is dry to mask off the areas you do not want to apply paint or stain. Be sure to apply pressure to the tape so the paint doesn’t seep underneath your tape lines.
- Staining and painting a quality brush will yeld better results, don’t go cheap on the paintbrush you may finish that bristles are falling out on to your moulding, we suggest a nylon or poly-nylon brush 2 to 2.5 inches in size are best suited for painting trim and mouldings. If using pollyurathan a small foam roller and foam brush are ideal.
- When Staining keep in mind stain will pool in cracks. use a dry paintbrush to remove it for each piece after it’s been completely wiped. Wipe the brush on a clean rag or brush it on newspaper to clean of the stain between strokes.
- If a second coat is needed make be sure to wait until the first coat is completely dry. The time it takes to dry will vary on temperature and humidity.
*We recommend touching up the trim as needed once the project is complete.
Types of Finish
Primed, Prefinished and Finished Elegance
We offer a number of different species and types of mouldings along with finishes. Our Primed moulding is a pine finger joint moulding which is ideal for someone looking to paint the unit. With a white coat of primer, it covers up the imperfections and is ready to be painted. Our prefinished mouldings come in a number of colors and stains, Our diverse product offering covers all wood looks. The Prefinished product is ready to be installed, which save you time and money. Finished Elegance® is the premier interior moulding line that is easy to install and requires no painting – a truly finished product. As the only moulding coated on all four sides with Eastman Cerfis™ technology, Finished Elegance offers the most superior durability on the market. Perfectly finish any look with our
Oil vs. water-based topcoats
Oil-based finishes are a little more durable than water-based, but the difference isn’t nearly as great as it was 10 years ago. Oil will yellow unstained wood more compared to water-based products, which can be good or bad depending on the look you’re after. Yellowing isn’t an issue with stained wood. Water-based products dry faster, which helps keep dust from settling into the finish. Cleanup is easier with water-based products, and the odor isn’t nearly as strong.
Polyurethane vs. varnish
What’s the difference between polyurethane and varnish? Varnish contains a resin and a solvent (oil or water). Once varnish is applied to wood, the solvent evaporates and the protective resin is left behind. Varnish can contain one of a few different resins, and polyurethane is one of them. Varnish that contains polyurethane just goes by the name polyurethane. The upside to polyurethane is that it’s tougher (like a plastic coating) than the other varnishes. The downside is that it can appear cloudy when it’s applied too thick, and it’s harder to sand between coats.
Preparation for Finishing
- When staining, a wood conditioner or sander/sealer should be used to help achieve a more uniform finish. (Be sure to follow the wood conditioner manufacturer’s instructions closely.)
- FIR doors should be surface treated with acetone product in advance of wood conditioner.
- Before applying the first coat of finish, thoroughly sand the entire surface of the door with 180 grit sandpaper. This crucial step helps remove handling marks, fingerprints, fiber pop, natural grain raise, possible water or liquid marks (if exposed during shipping or while on the job-site during the construction phase) and evenly prepares open wood pores to help produce a more uniform finish.
- Panels and bars oat and may become out of alignment during shipping and handling. Carefully take a block of wood and mallet and tap the components in alignment. Use caution not to damage the door or component during this process.
- Clean door thoroughly with a cloth after sanding to remove all dust or foreign material. Avoid using compressed air to blow off door as moisture or oil in the air may cause spotting. Avoid using caustic or abrasive cleaners.
- Hang door before finishing it, then remove it to finish properly.
When staining, a wood conditioner should be used to help achieve a more uniform finish. (Be sure to follow wood conditioner manufacturer’s instructions closely.) The first coat of stain may be a stain-and-sealer, a combination of stain and sealer which colors the door and seals the surface. It is available in a wide range of colors. (Dark color finishes should not be used on doors exposed to prolonged direct sunlight, as some expansion and contraction of door parts may occur. See warranty for detail.) The stain-and-sealer should have an alkyd-resin base. Under no circumstances should
a lacquer-based toner or any other lacquer-based finish be used on exterior doors. The second and third coat (two top coats minimum) may be a solvent-borne (oil-base, alkyd resin-base, polyurethane resin-base) or a water-borne (latex resin-base) clear finish. On doors that are glazed, the finish used should be owed from the wood slightly onto the glass. This will provide assurance against water leakage and protect the glazing compound from drying out.
All stain-and-clear finishes will perform better if protected from the direct effects of sunlight and weathering, and refinishing will not be required as frequently. In areas of high exposure of sunlight and weather a marine grade top coat is recommended.
When staining, a wood conditioner should be used to help achieve a more uniform finish. (Be sure to follow wood conditioner manufacturer’s instructions closely.) A solvent-borne finish system is recommended for interior doors and may be a lacquer-based system. For best performance, a minimum of two clear top coats should be used over stains. All six sides of the door must be properly sealed for warranty to apply. Woodgrain Doors have plastic film protection on the glass, removal of plastic film protection immediately after applying the finish is required. Failure to remove the plastic film at this time may cause harm to the glass and will create difficulty in removing the film at a later time. Do not use razor blades or sharp objects to remove the lm or clean the glass. These items will scratch the glass.
Apply 2-3 coats of either oil-base or latex resin-base paints over 1-2 coats of an oil-base primer. (Latex or water base primer may contribute to raised grain and require extra sanding to achieve a smooth finish.) All finishes should be applied in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. All six sides of the door must be properly sealed for warranty to apply.
- Woodgrain Doors cannot evaluate all the available paints and stains, nor customers’ specific application requirements.
- Your paint dealer should know of suitable finish systems that give satisfactory results in your region. It is highly recommended that top quality finishes be selected, and the application instructions on the container be followed explicitly.
- Please do not use metal objects, (razor blades etc.) to remove caulking compound or paint and varnish residue. It is known to scratch the tempered glass. Please do not use compressed air to blow off wood doors, as condensation in the air lines may cause irregular finishing results.
Woodgrain Doors with Glass
Plastic film protection on the glass should be removed immediately after applying the finish. Failure
to remove the plastic film at this time may cause harm to the glass and may create difficulty in removing the film. Use caution to avoid scratching the glass while cleaning it. Glass that is scratched due to cleaning is not covered by the warranty. Film should be removed by scoring edges carefully under sticking or profile edge and peeled off by hand. SOP instructions for film removal available on request.
Glass Cleaning and Care Guidelines
- Clean glass when dirt and residue appear
- Exercise special care when cleaning coated glass surfaces
- Avoid cleaning tinted and coated glass surfaces in direct sunlight
- Start cleaning at the upper level of glass and continue to lower levels
- Soak the glass surface with clean water and soap solution to loosen dirt and debris
- Use a mild, non-abrasive commercial window cleaning solution
- Use a squeegee to remove all of the cleaning solution
- Dry all cleaning solution from window gaskets, sealants and frame
- Be aware of and follow the glass supplier’s speci c cleaning recommendations
- Prevent conditions that can damage the glass
- Don’t use scrapers of any size or type for cleaning glass
- Don’t allow dirt and residue to remain on glass for an extended period of time
- Don’t begin cleaning glass without knowing if a coated surface is exposed
- Don’t clean tinted or coated glass in direct sunlight
- Don’t allow water or cleaning residue to remain on the glass or adjacent materials
- Don’t begin cleaning without rinsing excessive dirt and debris
- Don’t use abrasive cleaning solutions or materials
- Don’t allow metal parts of cleaning equipment to contact the glass
- Don’t trap abrasive particles between the cleaning materials and the glass surface
- Don’t allow other trades to lean tools or materials against the glass surface
- Don’t allow splashed materials to dry on the glass surface
Wall Angle: 90
Miter Angle: 35.3
Bevel Angle: 30
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